Frequently asked questions

Elpos Ltd. is a manufacturer and as such has over 150 km of heating cables in stock at all times. A large number of semi-finished products, such as thin heating mats, are just waiting to complete the so-called. “cold ends” to be fully tailored to your needs.

In other words, for smaller orders, your heating mats or heating cables will be sent to you the same or the next day after payment. Larger facilities are specially arranged, but it is imperative for us to respect your construction dynamics, so we can guarantee that your work will not be delayed because of us.

In Croatia we usually deliver our products by package delivery GLS. In exceptional cases, depending on the quantity or non-standard dimensions, delivery is done in some alternative ways agreed with the customer.

The delivery price depends on the size and dimensions of the package and varies from a minimum of 30 kn and more. The delivery price of your specific package will be indicated when making the offer.

If you want, you can leave us your mobile phone number so you can monitor the status of your package at any time and change the terms of delivery with your local GLS representative.

Deliveries abroad are specially arrange and adjusted to the customer required.

Not at all. Thin heating mats are made of classic heating cables type ST TWIN. Shortening the heating cable reduces the total operating resistance of the heating mat, and at the same time increases the power, which leads to increased thermal stress. This procedure significantly reduces the life of the heating cable, and in cases of major shortening can lead to instant burnout.

In cases when a “surplus” occurs, the laying plan should be analyzed and a thicker installation should try to “consume” all the heating cable and thus maintain the designed unit load of the heating cable.

Not. Our production is in Radnovac near Požega, but you should not mind that since we send the goods by parcel every day. It can be installed by your local electrician, with the help of instructions and materials that we send with the ordered goods, and if necessary, you can also contact us by phone in order to jointly eliminate any ambiguities.

Yes. In that case, you pay directly to the parcel delivery service provider. Alternatively, the goods can be paid for with a transaction account in one of the 3 banks (Erste, Addiko, ZABA) with which we do business.

There is no possibility of cash on delivery for deliveries abroad.

All resistive wire heating cables come from the German factory Garnisch GmbH Spacial Cable Production, with which we have been doing business for over 25 years. Garnisch GmbH is a renowned factory, represents the very top of the world products of resistive wire heating cables, follows all valid European standards in production and has all the prescribed certificates.

Self regulating heating cables come from the South Korean factory FINE Korea Co., Ltd. specialized in the production of heating cables with the property of self regulating power depending on the ambient temperature. Their production technology allows for lower switching currents and this is the main problem with this type of heating cables. In addition to Korean and American regulations, these cables have been tested in European laboratories according to applicable European standards and, accordingly, have all the required certificates.

Heating cables, either in the form of a thin heating mat or those intended for self-installation, go through a whole range of rigorous controls before they go into delivery. This is evidenced by the TEST SHEET, which monitors each delivery, and is generated as part of an automated measurement process.

The tested parameters are as follows: measuring the operating resistance of the heating cable, insulation resistance measurement, with a test voltage of 500 VDC for 1 minute high voltage test of 1000 VAC + 2 x 230 VAC = 1460 VAC calculation of the polarization index

The tested parameters are as follows:

• measuring the operating resistance of the heating cable,
• insulation resistance measurement, with a test voltage of 500 VDC for 1 minute
• high voltage test of 1000 VAC + 2 x 230 VAC = 1460 VAC
• calculation of the polarization index

• measuring the power at the operating voltage to determine the actual power of the heating cable

Thin heating mats have been in our production since 2001. To date, no burnout of the heating cable on the thin heating mat has been recorded, which has not been caused by mechanical damage. Cases in which the heater was damaged during installation or subsequent drilling in the floor have unfortunately been reported.

Any damage to the cable, including the heating, can be repaired, so we always appeal to contractors to report any damage in time, before the installation of the floor covering, in order to eliminate it, and the heating mat to retain its functionality. According to our instructions, your local electrician will be able to carry out the repair, and the material damage will be minimal.

Increased caution during installation, testing after installation and attention during subsequent work in the bathroom will allow a long service life for your underfloor heating.

It’s hard to say. The price depends primarily on the selected type of heating (storage – heating cables or direct – thin heating mats) and the desired power. When designing an underfloor heating system, the lengths of the heating cables required for the realization of a specific system are determined and this has the greatest impact on the price. Each heating element requires the construction of a so-called connection. “Cold end” and finish, which also affects the price. It follows that the lower the desired heated area, the lower the price of an underfloor heating system.

The prices of storage heaters are, as a rule, more favorable up to 20% compared to direct heating, but they require planning at an earlier stage of construction (installation in cement screed).

Mandatory thermostatic control with or without the possibility of programming the heating operation should be added to the investment price.

This question is even harder to answer than the previous one. The amount of energy required to overcome heat losses and heat the room to the desired temperature is directly dependent on the physics of the building. The question “How much will I spend on heating?” Will be answered by your architect, ie the person who prepared the energy certificate for you.

In any case, a well-programmed thermostat will contribute to optimal energy consumption. In other words the heating should be turned on during the night when the el. energy cheaper and align with your life habits (heating does not work when the apartment is empty).

Example of consumption of one average bathroom heating system with approximate prices from 2020:

• heated area: 3 m2
• installed power: 480 W
• working hours: 5 h at night and 5 h during the day
• price el. energy lower tariff: 0.5 kn / kWh
• price el. energy higher tariff: 1 kn / kWh
• approximate price per day: 5 h ∙ 0.48 kW ∙ 0.5 kn / kWh +5 h ∙ 0.48 kW ∙ 1 kn / kWh = 3.6 kn
• monthly cost: 108 kn

When choosing a heating system, all system costs are taken into account, such as: price per 1 kWh, investment in the introduction of the heating system, service life, and maintenance and depreciation costs. In addition to all the above, the satisfaction and comfort obtained by introducing a particular system should be taken into account.

It should be honestly said that for most of the classically built buildings, especially those belonging to the continental climate, underfloor heating cannot be the only solution. The losses of such facilities are too great to be offset by the relatively low temperatures that such systems achieve and at which they need to operate. Therefore, for such facilities, we recommend these systems as a supplement and additional increase in the comfort of living (especially in bathrooms), in other words, as a kind of luxury that is not so unattainable. With high energy class buildings, we can talk about underfloor heating as the only source of heat.

In underfloor heating, most of the heat is transferred by radiation, which provides a feeling of comfort at lower air temperatures, and as a result reduces heating costs (2 ° C lower air temperature results in up to 14% lower heating costs). In addition, underfloor heating has an almost ideal temperature profile along the vertical of the room and does not cause excessive air flow and raising dust.

Yes, if used as recommended. The recommended floor temperature, on which it is permanently located, is 26-27 ° C (maximum 29 ° C), in order to avoid the feeling of “inflamed” legs and the appearance of dilation of blood vessels. In rooms for occasional living (bathrooms, corridors) as well as areas by the window, the floor temperature may be higher than 30 ° C (eg bathrooms 35-37 ° C).

The possibility of electric shock is eliminated by the construction of the heating cable and installation in accordance with the rules of good engineering practice. Each heating cable consists of a conductive heating core, which is insulated and then braided with a metal sheath connected to a protective conductor and re-coated with an insulating layer. If the installation is carried out correctly, with a suitable fuse and RCD (residual circuit device), there is no danger even if the heating cable is damaged.

The very position of the heating cables in the floor and their low operating temperatures, eliminates any possibility of burns.

The final layer of the floor is best made of thermally well-conducting materials such as stone and ceramic tiles, linoleum and laminate flooring are slightly worse, and classic parquets and carpets have even greater thermal resistance.

When it comes to direct floor heating, thin heating mats are intended for installation under stone or ceramic tiles, and can exceptionally be installed in self-leveling mass and under other floor coverings. Heating films are intended for the realization of direct underfloor heating under the laminate. In the case of parquets, especially those of greater thickness, heating can only be realized as storage and with parquets that the manufacturer guarantees are suitable for installation in rooms with underfloor heating.

Regardless of the choice of the final floor covering, the prerequisite for the realization of underfloor heating is good thermal insulation of all elements of the building, especially the floor (heat losses should be less than 90 W/m² of floor area). Therefore, you should use quality thermal insulation (thickness from 20 to 100 mm) such as polyurethane foam, hard polystyrene (20-30 kg/m2), hard pressed stone wool, wood, cork, etc.

The recommended floor temperature, on which it is permanently located, is 26-27 °C (maximum 29 °C), in order to avoid the feeling of “inflamed” feet and the appearance of dilation of blood vessels.

In rooms for occasional living (bathrooms, corridors) as well as areas by the window, the floor temperature may be higher than 30 °C (eg bathrooms 35-37 °C).

Most often, bathrooms are set at 37 °C, because we perceive this barefoot as a comfort, and we do not stay long in such a space. Other rooms in the house are set at 26 °C.

It should be taken into account that the set temperatures are in the floor, at the place of installation of the sensor and that they do not represent the air temperature in the heated room – which is always slightly lower.

You can see more detailed instructions in the section: Heating types – Underfloor heating – Application and installation, and here only briefly.

They are most often installed in construction adhesive under ceramic tiles, and it is also possible to install in construction adhesive under stone slabs, carpets and wooden and synthetic floor coverings.

Installation starts from the substrate, which is usually reinforced cement screed. If there is enough space for installation, it is desirable to put a layer of thermal insulation (eg high-density polystyrene), at least 20 mm thick, under the substrate. In reconstructions, the base can be an old floor with ceramic or terrazzo tiles. Much less often, the base is a wooden floor or various types of gypsum and hard thermal insulation boards.

The installation procedure depends on the type of substrate and the available materials, but some principles are common in all variants, and these are:

• the substrate must be clean, free of grease, sharp debris and dust
• heating mats should be laid according to a previously prepared laying plan
• it is preferable that the side of the mat with the heaters is facing downwards, as this makes it easier to apply the adhesive with a notched trowel
• connection cables (“cold ends”) of heating cables must not intersect with heating cables on the mat, and for thickenings caused by making the connection of heating and connection cable, due to the appearance of a bundle of connecting cables from several heating networks or due to the installation of a protective tube groove in the substrate and thus avoid increasing the thickness of the adhesive layer
• checking the correctness of heating mats by measuring their el. resistance and insulation resistance are mandatory procedures before and after laying the tiles
• careful handling of all materials, devices and tools to avoid accidental damage to the heater insulation
• compliance with all recommendations of the manufacturer of adhesives and other building materials
• heating mats should not be turned on for at least two weeks after laying the tiles

Recommendations for the ceramic part of the work are especially difficult to give, because the styles of work are different and are not dictated only by the substrate and available material, but also by the work habits of the ceramists themselves. Nevertheless, there are three basic modes of operation:

1. way:

– lift part of the heating net and apply glue to the substrate with a notched trowel
– lower and press the heating mat
– apply a new layer of glue and smooth with a flat part of a trowel
– immediately place the tiles on the glue prepared in this way

2. way:
–  using a trowel, press the glue, 4-6 mm thick, over the heating mat
–  immediately place the tiles on the glue prepared in this way

3. way:  

 – using a trowel, press the glue over the heating mat, with a maximum thickness of 3-4 mm
 – allow the glue to dry
 – the next day apply a new coat of glue and immediately stack the tiles

Of course. Elpos Ltd. is a manufacturer and we can develop and make mats of any shape for you. Of course, it is best to choose one of over 140 of our standard networks, but the option of making to order is also possible.

So far, we have already made a number of unusual shapes that have been adapted to semicircular plants, curved wellness benches and the like. Send us a drawing with the exact elevations and we will make a heating mat that will suit your needs.

Malfunctions occur most often during installation (damage, crushing …), and less often during operation. In case of major damage, after installation, the protective elements (RCD switches, fuses) do not allow the heater to turn on, while in case of minor, more subtle damage, the heater works properly for a while (usually has lower insulation resistance), after which a fault occurs.

Proud only of the method of detecting faults on heating cables installed in the floor developed by our engineers. The method includes a high-resolution thermal imaging camera, a high-voltage piercing apparatus, a control isolating transformer and, of course, “trimming” accessories.

The main question is what your habits are and how much you are willing to spend on managing your underfloor heating (you can see the prices in our price list or in the online store).

Younger and more technology-minded people, who are not at home all day, are more inclined to choose programmable thermostats that allow them to adapt the heating regime to their living habits and maintain a comfortable temperature while optimizing consumption. Most often it is a thermostat type E91 / TT16.

A newer trend is the installation of a WiFi thermostat that you can fully control via a mobile device from some remote location. In addition to installation in more luxuriously decorated facilities, it is also used in facilities for occasional stays, such as cottages, when it allows inclusion before arrival in order to welcome visitors to a warm space. These thermostats are as programmable as those from the previous group, but they imply that there is a permanent internet connection in the building.

Older or those who are more inclined to simpler solutions opt for a thermostat with a wheel on which the temperature is set. It allows the heating to maintain the set temperature, and there is no possibility of programming by time. Most often it is a thermostat type RTC 70 / MT26.

It is possible to replace it with another thermostat from the same manufacturer. The problem is in the measuring sensor that is already built into your floor. Sensors from different manufacturers have different R-T characteristics, which is why your new thermostat would misinterpret the data sent to it by the sensor.

I recommend that you look for R-T characteristics in the section Documents  / Catalog / Sensors  / R-T characteristics of temperature sensors and check if the sensor you have would match the thermostat you want. Or just give us a call and inquire before buying.

In short, a lot. The minimum required power for heating concrete or asphalt surfaces is 250 W / m². In the case when the final layer is a concrete or granite cube, the situation is even more unfavorable and a minimum of 300 W / m² is required. Less installed power, in our climate, makes no sense because they cannot melt snow and ice, and thus investing in such heating becomes meaningless.

Therefore, I need to consider heating only the really necessary surfaces. Often only the ruts are heated, instead of the entire access ramp, or the central part of the stairs instead of the entire width. Rationalization often finds a satisfactory and feasible solution for heating outdoor surfaces without the additional lease of engaged electricity power.

.Not. Systems exposed to external conditions need to be monitored and maintained. Gutters and drain pipes need to be cleaned and the electrodes on the moisture detection probes checked and maintained. The same goes for moisture probes built into outdoor surfaces.

However, in addition to the need for regular maintenance, it is necessary to take into account the sensitivity of the installed system. Moisture detection (with electro-resistant probes) is a very complex problem and probes for this purpose are very easy to “trick”. It can happen that thick fog, at low temperatures, “deceives” your probe and the heating starts working for no reason or that extremely dry snow falls, which absorbs all the water on the moisture probe and the heating does not work. In all these cases, everything is technically correct, but the heating function is not done and human control is irreplaceable. 

Yes. Gutter heaters come fully equipped and adapted to your gutter, with all distances, suspension, cables and other necessary equipment. The heater only needs to be unwound, placed in a horizontal gutter and pulled into the vertical drains. Such a simple installation implies pre-precise taking of measures and making a sketch of gutters, because heaters are made according to them, which are subsequently difficult to reshape.

The goal of heating the gutters is not to keep the gutters completely clean of snow and ice, but to provide paths through which the melted, but still very cold water will flow safely, so as not to look for alternative routes and destroy the building. As a result, cold water will freeze in unheated vertical drains as soon as it reaches them. By saving in terms of not heating the vertical drains the problem will only move a few meters lower where an ice plug will form. Exceptionally, it is not necessary to heat, along the entire height but only the first meter, the vertical drains that pass through the heated spaces.

In principle, yes. For all procedures of making connections and terminations of heating cables, as well as making T-joints, we have written instructions that we can send you with the ordered goods. However, this procedure still requires a bit more experience, time and attention and is not the most suitable for field work.

We believe that it is not unimportant that the heating cable completely made in Elpos goes through all the stages of testing and is accompanied by the official TEST SHEET.

To select the heating cable of the pipeline, which will cover its losses and / or maintain its technological temperature, a few more parameters should be taken into account. In addition to the length and cross section of the pipeline, and the medium contained in it and the desired temperature, it is important to choose the thermal insulation with which it will be insulated. Heating pipelines without thermal insulation, economically justified, is not possible. The method of maintenance (possible cleaning “steam blowing”), the appearance itself (isometry of the pipeline), restrictions on the length of the heating cable and the like, affect the choice of heating cable.

Choosing the best heater according to technological and economic conditions requires a more experienced or at least more knowledgeable designer. Therefore, we recommend that you contact us with your specific problem and we will choose the best solution together.

All our heating cables meet the prescribed conditions, but we do not have the appropriate documentation for that, because our certification costs are too high and the market is too small. Therefore, we cannot offer you heating cables that are accompanied by certificates for EX performance.